A Muzungu in Uganda NOT QUITE An American in Paris

Today for lunch I veered from eating traditional Ugandan food. I walked to a shopping area in Ntinda and I ate at a restaurant. I ordered a “California Wrap” which had flat bread wrapped around sautéed aubergine, peppers and onions, with chips (fries). Then, to top it off I had a Coke Zero (bottled in Kampala) and Heinz ketchup.

There is a funny story that is told about some white people who were wandering around this area a long time ago. They were looking for the source of the Nile, but they did not know where it was. Everywhere they stopped to ask the local people, but the local people said “It is there.” It seemed funny to them that these white visitors should be lost looking for the source of the Nile which is quite large and not that easy to miss in this region. They started to call these white visitors Muzungu – strangers who do not know where they are, who are unable to locate themselves in this place.

As I walk around, people will say to me “Muzungu” this and “Muzungu” that. The children are excited to see me and they also will point and say “Hello, Muzungu.”

There is some truth to the disorientation one can feel in someone else’s land. And though everyone welcomes me, I must find my way as a stranger here.

I have learned about the boda boda who will take you where you want to go for a small price. But at first it felt strange.

I have maneuvered my way around the shops and streets. But, at first it felt strange.

I have learned to accept the vigilant security. But at first it felt strange.

I have enjoyed the way women’s clothes are displayed with wide hips. At first it felt strange, but then I thought maybe an old HIPPY fits here.

I look closely at the non-traditional clothes in these street markets and I find they come from a very familiar place.

So though I am a Muzungu, I can find myself here.

When I see the children, it is easy not to feel like a stranger.

I saw this young fellow when I was walking to town. He is working on making a swing. When I returned he was, indeed, swinging on it.

I see the hard labor of the builders and the building progress and I am reminded of the workers at home and the new buildings that represent economic growth and investment.

And I have a Coke Zero, California roll, and chips with Heinz Ketchup for lunch!

AN AMERICAN IN PARIS A MUZUNGU IN UGANDA